Dressing

First, put on the 足袋 (tabi).

All dressing is done from the left. This is an old-fashioned practice and there is no particularly obvious reason. Firmly put on the tabi, then put in the 小鉤 (kohaze – lit. “small hooks”) starting from the bottom. There are also tabi that use Velcro rather than hooks, which I think is easy to use. It is difficult until you get used to the putting in the hooks. Please be sure to always wear the tabi from the left foot.

Next is the 長襦袢 (nagajuban – lit. “long undergarment”). As a side note, if you were to wear a normal training gi, this is how you would put it on. If there is a cord attached tie it like this. Importantly, whether in a training gi or a kimono, be sure to always have the right side fold over first, in other words, always 右前 (migi mae – roughly “right first”).

As the opposite 左前 (hidari mae – roughly “left first”) is how you wear it on funerals, please make sure to always keep the right-then-left order.

Well then, onto the nagajuban.

Pass the arms through the left sleeve, then the right sleeve. And align the juban to the body so that the right comes first.

You may optionally use a string here and tie it to your waist.

Next, we will put on the 長着 (nagagi – “long kimono”).

The nagagi is the same as the nagajuban. It is first placed on the back.

Next, pass the arms through the left sleeve, then the right sleeve.

And once again fold the right side of the juban to the body first, next fold the right side of the nagagi first.

At this time, it is better to match the length of both sides of the nagagi first and then fit it to the body.

I will next explain how to tie the knot of the obi which is called 一文字結 (ichimonji musubi).

Fold the last 25 cm to 30 cm of the obi in half. This is called 手先 (tesaki – “finger(tip)”).

Wrapping the obi to the left is 関東巻 (kantoumaki), wrapping it to the right 関西巻 (kansaimaki). In Tenshinryuu we generally use Kantoumaki.

Place the tesaki of the obi to the right hip and wrap the obi around three times.

Then let the remainder of the obi called 垂れ先 (taresaki) go over and cross the tesaki, then grab it from below and bring it up. While slightly pulling in the stomach, pull the ends to make the knot. In Tenshinryuu you are taught to open a space between the obi and the body about one palm width for holding the swords.

After pulling the two ends tightly, cross them again here. Press the tesaki with your right arm against your body.

Fold the taresaki sideways by about 20 cm front to back. Once this is done, you may want to pull the ends to tighten the knot once again.

Then from below, wrap the tesaki around the folded taresaki. After this we could tie it, but this time we’ll simply insert the tesaki into the gap between the layers of the obi.

It will have a better appearance if you fold this portion called 羽 (hane – “wings/feathers”).

Although it will be hidden in the hakama, please be encouraged to wear this as nicely as possible.

Please make sure that the obi falls slightly forward when viewed from the side.

Position the oni below the pelvis, with the hip bone at the upper end of the obi.

If you wrap the obi too tightly on the hips it will be difficult to insert a sword, it’s also not attractive in terms of wearing Japanese kimono.

After you have finished tying the obi, it will look nicer when you press the wrinkles on the front and back of the nagagi to the left and right edges, so please pay attention to such fine details.

Next up is 尻端折り (shirippa shori). You won’t have to do it if your kimono is as short as the training gi from earlier, but it is necessary for longer kimono. Pull the end of the nagajuban and nagagi up from under the obi.

The following is how to wear the hakama.

When folded correctly the hakama can be unfolded immediately.

Like before, make sure to insert the left foot first.

Then we will make sure the front part of the hakama goes right above the kaku’obi.

In some other ryuuha (schools) the kaku’obi may be shown a little, not however in Tenshinryuu. Make sure front string part of the hakama goes right above the kaku’obi.

Wrap both front strings around and let them cross behind your back. Then pull them firmly back to the front while pulling in your stomach.

Pull on both strings that are crossed in the back and hold them with your right hand. Next, adjust with your left hand so that the front string intersects with the left part of the hane.

Now switch from your right hand to your left one to hold both front strings while still pulling on them. Then adjust with your right hand so that the front string intersects with the right part of the hane. By doing this, you can prevent the front strings from rising gradually.

Then let both strings cross in the front, but please do so especially low.

The left front string is to come before the right one, and then cross at the 丹田 (tanden – spot below the navel). Then fold both straps vertically, bring them backward parallel to the floor, and tie them in a bow on the backside.

As another method, you can fold the only left front string vertically on the left hip and then tie both on the backside. Either way is suitable.

Next put the backboard on the obi. You don’t however just place it on top, but push it deep into the obi.

Bring both back strings of the hakama to the front. Have the left back string come over the right one, wrap it around all four strings and pull it up from below, then pull both back strings firmly while pulling in your stomach. Now pull the string on the left side down from the top to entwine all the strings.

There are various ways of handling the strings, but first of all I will introduce you to 一文字結 (ichimonji musubi). Like this I’m going to fold the back string so that it is now on the right side, to conclude, make it horizontal in the form of a straight line (TL note: 一文字 (ichimonji) refers to the kanji 一 (ichi) which represents the number one and obviously is a straight line). When folding, the width is up to your own taste – it doesn’t matter even if it’s a little short. After you’ve brought the folded string to the centre, take the back string that is dangling below and wrap it around all strings and pull it down. With the remaining string you can make a cross, which makes it a knot called 十文字結 (juumonji musubi) (TL note: 十 (juu) is the kanji for the number ten).

However often the Juumonji Musubi can easily come undone, and because of this drawback we’ll take the remaining string over to our right hip, and work it through the hakama strings. The remaining string seems short here, so you may want to process it through the right hip to the appropriate length.

It is important that there is sufficient space between the upper and lower straps. The lower hakama strap may rise up while moving, but please try to make such a form first.

Arrange the kimono through these openings in the hakama called 脇あき (wakiaki).

Please be careful to not let the kimono or any strings come out through the wakiaki.

This was all regarding how to wear a kimono.

There are various ways to wear a kimono, and some might be some that are easier for each of us. As you get used to it, you can wear it in your own way, if you already have a way of wearing kimono that way can be continued. I think it’s fine as long as it’s worn neatly.

As we put in swords, it becomes important to make sure that e.g. you can move around without any problem while wearing swords or that the swords are stable etc., so please pay close attention to things like that.